Personal Sewing Academy: Pants Master Pattern

This is my next master pattern that’s in the works.  I need pants that fit, desperately.  I signed up for Kenneth King’s Craftsy course last February and have slowly worked on this project since then.

Finding jeans that are long enough and fit my thighs can be tough.  Lee used to make the perfect jeans, then they got the idea to get rid of their long lengths.  I chose to copy my last pair of long length Lee jeans.  It’s a good thing I was able to take the details from my favorite jeans before they were completely rags – maybe patched and re-dyed, but not completely rags.

My favorite things about these jeans were the length and the way they made my butt look. I got to sew up a first muslin about two weeks ago.  Whoa, the back view was seriously tight!  Not what I was going for at all.  After consulting my fit books and the interwebs, I lengthened the back crotch.  Hooray, the muslin makes my butt look good again!  And I see the wrinkles and the thigh seam pulling toward the front, but will work those issues out out later.I’m also knock-kneed and the front grainline was off because of it.  So I adjusted that too.  I’m pretty pleased with how this muslin looks now.  You can see how much longer the left pant leg is at the bottom compared to the un-altered right leg.  It almost looks like I have my right knee bent, but both legs are straight in the photo.

But I never really liked the bootcut-ness of the jeans and really want widelegs. 

The Little Miss helped me correct the length on Butterick 4125’s pants; I’m going to try to incorporate that leg silhouette into this master pattern.  With all these adjustments, I might have a killer pants pattern! 

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