Oh boy, oh boy, I finished something I actually wore out of the house! I found this 1986 Vogue 9560 pattern at the Goodwill Outlet months and months ago.
I liked the in-seam pocket and length. It also reminded me of an early New Look pattern I saw while browsing on the Vintage Pattern Wiki:
I thought this pattern would be great for the butterfly print bottomweight fabric I got at Jo-Ann’s a few years ago. But, the pattern was already cut to size 14 – which I am definitely not :). So a practice skirt was in order.
I used the waist and hip measurements from my 1 Dress Project skirt pieces to do the grading. Then I used floral quilting cotton and some striped blue and white cotton fabric for the pocket facing. While I like the colors in the quilting cotton, such an abundance of floral print is not my usual thing. I was pleased with myself for the pattern grading work.
I practiced my hand-sewing with a picked zipper and hand-sewn ribbon bound hem. Instead of grading the waistband pattern piece, I used Sandra Betzina’s waistband tutorial in Power Sewing. Ahh, to use my true waist measurement – a humbling experience. But the waistband fits great.
Once I got to the skirt hem process, a dilemma arose. The skirt length did NOT look good. So I had to figure out what length would look good.
While my favorite length was mid-thigh, I wouldn’t rock that at work. So I settled on a knee-skimming length.
Pattern Description: 1986 misses’ 6-gore mid-calf length skirt with flat front or inverted pleat front and in-seam front pocket detail.
Pattern Sizing: I found the thrifted pattern cut to size 14, graded it up to my (not 14) measurements and made some adjustments (see below).
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Hmm, kind of. The original pattern length did not work on my figure. (insert hyperlink with text “original pattern length”)
Were the instructions easy to follow? I only followed the pocket instructions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the shape of this skirt. I also really liked this pattern is reminiscent of the 1950s Advance 5403 pattern (but a lower price point – bonus!). And I like the pockets! It’s been a long time since I’ve been able to keep my cell phone in a pocket!
I didn’t like the original skirt length on me, but that’s not the pattern’s fault.
Fabric Used: Quilting cotton from Affordable Fabrics in Rocky Hill and striped cotton from my mom’s stash.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The made a high buttocks contour adjustment and a large rump adjustment from Sandra Betzina’s Power Sewing. I took the front seams in 1″ from waist to hip (but it makes the pockets look funny). I also made my first measurements-only waistband as suggested in Power Sewing. I love that book!
The original skirt length did not work for me at all so I chopped 7 in. off the bottom. This length is better for me, but I will need to adjust the back hem allowance for relaxed posture “ride up”.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This was a fit run of the pattern: I wanted to make a longer, inverted-pleat version in butterfly fabric. The butterfly fabric might be a bit too cute for me :-).
I would use this pattern again – it’s a nice, slightly-fuller-than-A-line skirt; a good basic.
Conclusion: I like this pattern – a vintage feel at a good price (hooray for thrifting). Once I get the fitting down, I’m good to go!